Fisherman's Cottage, Johnshaven

September 2017

sits between Forfarshire (now Angus) and Aberdeenshire on the east coast of Scotland. Draw a line from just north of Montrose roughly north west to the Cairngorms then sharply east towards Aberdeen and that is Kincardineshire.

We stayed at the small fishing village of Gourdon and took a circular 9 mile walk down to Johnshaven, up to Inverbervie and back down to Gourdon. Gourdon (pronounced Gurdon) has a simple and good value Harbour Bar bed & breakfast associated with the Harbour Bar, and the fish and chip shop next door provides meals.

The walk, which follows a coastal trail in one direction and a countryside track the other, is varied, interesting and generally flat, though providing good views. This is Gourdon at low tide. Village activities follow the tides as the boats leave and return with mackerel, lobsters and crabs. The smokery provides freshly smoked and delicious mackerel, the fish and chip shop delicious fish suppers and you may be able to grab a lobster or crab before they are whisked off to Spain.

We followed directions for Walking World id=935 and the coastal path in particular was very straightforward. Johnshaven (below) is a fishing village centred on the harbour, though thriving a little more than Gourdon, with a well presented caravan site, several cottages for holiday rent and a very good pub, The Anchor, where later we had a fine evening meal.

On the country leg of the walk we visited Benholm Kirk whose beautiful interior belies the austerity of its outer walls. Maintained in excellent condition by the Scottish Redundant Churches Trust this should not be missed. Unfortunately Benholm Mill lies closed following a health and safety issue. We can only hope that this will be resolved soon and the active community around the mill with its plants, coffee shop and environmental activities will thrive again.

The track continued to Inverbervie, famed as the birthplace of Hercules Linton, designer of The Cutty Sark, but otherwise we were not delayed by anything in the town and returned to Gourdon, a good walk enjoyable and interesting, on a day of very fine weather.

Kincardineshire has now been absorbed into Aberdeenshire.