Four walking boys at The Plough, Coldharbour, Surrey November 2010

is an attractive spot and we were looked after well. Arriving on what we were told was the busiest night of the year for them, Guy Fawkes, it looked as if the whole of Surrey was out in their 4 x 4s parked awkwardly along a narrow hollow way which is the main entry to the village. Driving cautiously along in the pitch dark we were confronted by a convoy of folks leaving the bonfire and we were forced to reverse some considerable distance because no-one had left passing places. Memo for organisers - put some cones out to let folks pass!

But we survived and arriving fairly late at The Plough, which was packed with post-bonfire drinkers and their dogs and children, we were made very welcome and given a meal in comfort.

The Plough is also a micro-brewery - Leith Hill Brewery (not to be misread as lethal brewery...) and does an acceptable pint of Crooked Furrow and an excellent pint of Tallywhacker. Leith Hill, incidentally, is said to be the highest point in south-east England (and the Plough is said to be the highest pub) and brings walkers and cyclists to the area. Though as is the way with cyclists they whizzed by rather than stopping for a pint. We walkers take life a bit more gently and tested the Tallywhacker (and guest beer Spitfire) rigorously.

Our rooms were good, the food was fine and the service excellent, though the restaurant didn't seem to have quite taken off as we were the only customers for the weekend. Indeed, after the cram full Friday night, with an outside bar in the barn as well as the pub itself, Saturday night was quite dead! Maybe it was the shock of being over-run.

By the way, a "cold harbour" was a shelter for wayfarers constructed by the roadside, which was not occupied or manned by anyone and therefore didn't provide meals and comfort - just a rather dank chilly roof to protect you against the weather. "Harbour" here has the archaic meaning "shelter".